Day 8 - Logroños to Najera - 18.1 miles

My original plan of departing very early changed at about 1am when I discovered the screen of my phone was dead. I could hear things happening like receiving texts or plugging in the phone to charge, but I couldn't see anything. I started going through variois scenarios in my head about what I would do. Obviously the most important thing was to get the phone taken care of. You don't realize how much of your life is contained in this little device until you lose access to it. Email, Google Maps, Google Translate, and WhatsApp were all gone in addition to contact information and my ability to call anyone.

The front desk clerk at my hotel arrived at 6am, and started working right away to find a phone store and the time they opened. He also let me use the computer to email Robert. I was very fortunate to have been in a big city where there happened to be an Apple store! So I enjoyed a relaxing breakfast (which is always included with my hotel but I sometimes depart too early to use) and arrived at the store promptly at 10am! The woman was able to get my phone working in a few minutes and I was on the Camino by 10:30. I asked what caused it and she said it could have been a variety of things - heat, app updates, etc.

Today the first five miles or so were following the trail out of the city and by a pretty reservoir and nature preserve. I then passed by the wall of crosses I read about in my guidebook; a fence that pilgrims have attached all sorts of homemade crosses to. I would have missed all of this if I left in the dark! The trail then wound through lots of wine fields and the town of Navarette (well known for pottery). Since I had to carry whatever I purchased, Robert was safe!

I met a couple along the way who I had a long chat with. The wife had retired from the Army, and they now live in Panama. They told me all about Panama since Robert spent his early years there, although all the military bases where he lived have been closed now. Robert loved it there and he's told me stories of avocado wars with his Panamanian friends! Whaaaaaat???!!! He said that was before he knew how wonderful avocados were and how much money he was throwing away!

Beyond that was my stop for lunch - Ventosa - with the 1 km of art!! Every so often there would be a huge beautiful painting, sculpture, or photograph lining the path. There were so many I could only include a few photos of my favorites. I rested for lunch in this town before making the final push to Najera. . Today's high was in the 80s, with full sun for most of the walk and little or no water replenishment. I must say the last 12 km after lunch wasn't very nice - lots of factory areas, dusty roads, and lots of trash or road construction "dumps." Press on as they say. I never want to say I didn't like the walk as there is always an opportunity to appreciate something, but much of today wasn't pretty. However, one of my highlights was listening to a group of young Italians singing songs as they walked. As soon as one song ended, another person would start a new one. They were having such a good time together, so I hung back to enjoy.

My final destination today, the town of Najera, has a warm, distinctive charm. As I write this, the downtown area is now filled with the locals who are all ready to enjoy the weekend! Many are dressed up, children are running around playing at the park, and they are just now having aperitivo at 8pm. Pilgrims and locals are most definitely NOT on the same schedule! A big lesson for us is don't wait till 8pm for the normal restaurant dinner time because there will be a long wait for a table. Before I left, my young Italian doctor told me he loved Spain's relaxed lifestyle and mentality. I said, "Americans think of Italy like that!" and he said, "Oh no - the Spanish are much more relaxed and enjoy life more than we do!" Funny, how the perspective changes, but I do see a difference now. The Spanish are much more strict about siesta time and coming out every night to enjoy time with friends. One of the desk clerks told me that although vacation time has ended and kids are back in school, no one wants to let the summer go. I can understand that.

On the bridge in Najera

I am looking forward to a slightly shorter, earlier walk tomorrow as it is getting into the 90s for the next few days. I can't believe I have been walking for one week already! Really other than a little heat rash under my socks, I have felt wonderful - no blisters, sore feet, knees, or hips, and I have had plenty of sightseeing energy at the end of my day. I realize I have been very blessed!