Day 7 - Los Arcos to Logroño - 17.34 miles

Before I talk about today's walk, I would like to say that even though Los Arcos (yesterday) was very small, their church was absolutely stunning. They had so many beautiful elements - frescos, sculptures, historical documents in glass cases - it was by far the showpiece of the town.

Today was our first longer day. Everyone was talking about getting started earlier than they normally did. I got on the path at 6:10 am and there were quite a few pilgrims already well on their way. The initial 4 miles or so was flat fields and farmland. It was a strange day of up short steep climbs to hill towns, down steep descents out the other side, walks along highways for periods, then climbs through forested mountains, another hilltop town (Viana) where most people took a coffee break and then the last long push into Logroño. There was a lot of time near the road today, but there was also a lot of beauty in the forest. The smell of pine and sagebrush was quite refreshing.

I did notice we had large huddles of people today as the paths narrowed, but it would eventually spread out again. About 45 minutes outside of Viana, we were at the top of a hill and there was an overwhelming smell of chocolate! It was so strong for about a half hour. I just kept thinking "Am I imagining this? Could there be a chocolate factory down in the valley? Could it be the chocolate pastries being baked for breakfast? We were so far away, that just seemed impossible! I did remember to ask a few people later who walked about the same time, and they had also smelled it! Whatever it was, it sure smelled good!

Logroño is a very large and bustling city. After being in such small towns it was actually quite overwhelming. Traffic, cars honking, lots and lots of people moving about but also lots of cultural opportunities and a variety of food to choose from. I went to The Museo de La Rioja for a few hours in the afternoon. It was part history of the region with artifacts and part art museum. Well worth the visit!

The British friends had suggested meeting up in the Cathedral Square at 6pm for drinks and dinner. However, several of us just felt like we needed a quiet night. So after hanging out for a little while, I went and grabbed a salad at the grocery store and went back to my hotel. I know . . . . I know . .. . I am in the Rioja wine region of Spain and didn't have any wine tonight. Crazy!! There is time, friends! BTW, their grape vines and trees look very different than Italy's. They are short, squatty plants that have all the bunches of grapes underneath and very low to the ground. They were harvesting a field by hand today as we walked by.

I know I mentioned that the pilgrim symbol for the Camino is a scallop shell. I have taken photos all along the way of the shell in all its forms - metal tiles on the ground, painted ones wishing us Buen Camino, and others. My favorite thing that I forgot to share though is a painting my sister, Betsy, did of a pair of hiking boots. She is quite the artist, and I asked her if she could paint a logo for me with a pair of hiking boots. She was the one who thought of adding the shell for me, and I love it!!

Tomorrow is another long day at almost 18 miles, so I am planning another early start. It was our oldest son's birthday today, so Happy Birthday Red!