Day 3 - Zubiri to Pamplona 13.71 miles

Well sleep was not to be had last night. Several snorers and mosquitoes (which always seem to find me) kept me up most of the night. Earplugs definitely help but after maybe 4 hours of sleep, I got up, got dressed and headed out with my headlamp at 6:45. Several other pilgrims were doing the same. It was peaceful in the early morning hours. Usually breakfast is included with my hotel stay but obviously not at the hostel. So it was an easy decision to grab a quick protein bar and set out early.

Spanish steps at dawn

Abbey run by monks

I was told at the Pilgrim Office to cross back over the little bridge into town and head to the right. The trail would parallel the river. Zubiri is small and industrial, so I walked by an enormous electrical plant and a place with all sorts of rock (from what I could see). Then the path would alternate between road and wooded path. I passed the 3 Italians from my Hostel and continued on. During the quiet of dawn I took the time to pray for family and friends as I walked. Although I had wanted to walk alone today, I met a nice couple from Quebec that I spoke to for quite some time. They had befriended a young French woman traveling alone, so the three of them walk together daily now. We came upon an American couple that they had met previously and the husband told me later that the Americans did all their training on a treadmill during the winter viewing a TV screen with the Camino playing!!! The Canadians stopped for breakfast at the first little place (which I later learned was the ONLY little place until Borlada-right near Pamplona), and I walked on. Most of the day was walking near or in towns and public recreation areas alternating with some hilly terrain of dry scrub in the open. I was glad to have gotten an early start as today was expected to be 90 degrees.

I took my time in Borlada it was such a pretty town. I went to a bar (also a coffee shop) and had a caffè con Leche and one of the best breakfast sandwiches I have ever had! It was jamón, piquillo pepper and over-easy huevos on a baguette that he warmed up. Maybe it was that I had walked 12+ miles already with very little to eat, but that was delicious. I took the opportunity to stop at a grocery store and replenish nuts and fruit too. Spain seems much more adherent to the “no open stores on Sundays” rule than Italy, as well as most stores being closed during the siesta time. So seize the opportunity when you have it! On my way through town there was a beautiful, public garden/historic home with walking paths lined with flowers, statuary and fountains. I strolled through taking photos and enjoying the diversion.

I arrived in Pamplona at 11:30, and my hotel room was ready! Yay!! I could grab a shower and change clothes before sightseeing. As is now the routine - I immediately washed my clothes and hung them to dry. Later I walked around the city taking in the highlights - Estafada Street (the bull run route through the city), the bull ring, the monument and park dedicated to Ernest Hemingway, as well as some beautiful churches. I stopped at a cafe for a late lunch of gazpacho - perfect for a hot summer day.

After a good nap and organizing my gear for tomorrow, I went out at about 7:30pm in search of any of my trail buddies. One thing about this city: it's big, and you don’t run into people everywhere. In fact, I had only seen 3 people I even recognized all day. So I went to the restaurant streets in search of someone I could share dinner with. I did see last night’s bunkmate (D) already eating, and quickly she invited me over to eat with her. (I want to mention that I have purposely not shared anyone’s name besides the first day, just for safety and confidentiality, but I will assign them a letter for clarity from now on. I only shared Anna’s name on Day 1 b/c she was only on the trail for one day.)

During dinner “D” told me a story about how she was out sightseeing and a father and young son had a serious bicycle accident right in front of her. The boy was only 3-4 years old and was stuck in the bike seat with his leg caught. She and some other passers-by helped hold the bike and get the boy untangled. Both were significantly injured and bleeding. The little boy had a huge bump developing on his head. She said that although the dad initially refused any medical treatment offered by the police, he soon realized they needed it and an ambulance was called. The night before she told me about helping an elderly gentleman find his hosts after he seemed very tired and disoriented after the day’s hike. Wow! I told her she is a guardian angel for this pilgrimage!😇

Sometimes I feel so comfortable like I’ve known these people and hiked with them forever, and sometimes I realize I’ve only just begun.

Gazpacho for Lunch!