Day 15 - Hornillos to Castrojeriz - 12. 6 miles

First I want to talk footwear and gear today!!! Most people have a favorite footwear brand that works for them. They tried out brands and styles ahead of their trip and decided what was best. Other than various types of hiking boots, the all-time winner of the Camino for shoes (at least this year) is HOKAS! I am amazed how many people are wearing them. Obviously, there are others wearing Altra's, Salomon's, and various tennis shoe brands, but the big winner is HOKAS. I am also surprised at how many people have switched to walking in sandals (with or without socks)! I would think that the rocks and gravel we walk on would constantly be getting in the sandals, but some people are having so much trouble with their feet. I have also seen an increase in the number of people wearing pull-on knee braces. Yikes!

Sometimes I think all the freakish planning and purchasing people do for this kind of trip is unnecessary. I read books on ultralight packing, but I wasn't willing to go to the extremes that this one woman did - no shaving, no bra, and cut every tag or plastic piece off her clothes, pack, etc. I did weight it all and then weighed my pack with it all inside, and I did stick to the 2 changes of clothes (except for one additional outfit I wore on the airplane/in Paris, which is useful and I can still use it to hike in if necessary). Although I didn't bring any makeup or hair products, I did purchase special "air" type undergarments, and the quick-drying clothes I chose (but already owned) have been amazing! On the other hand, I do know other people who just threw whatever they had in their pack and came here. Basically, I just think some people get really caught up in "It has to be the best, newest, most perfect outdoor item" and then they don't need it or use it. Obviously, some things like the right socks are non-negotiable, but lots of things aren't really that important to your comfort or experience.

Off the soap box and on to the walk today. It began in a taxi to Hornillos again this morning. Adios to the city of Burgos. We walked through the rolling plains of the Meseta. Maybe it was my years stationed in Nebraska, but I find this landscape very soothing.

Today I stopped for a coffee at the mid-point village of Hontanas. It was a festive little town with colorful flags draped throughout the main street.

Hontanas from above

About 3/4 of a mile before Castrojeriz, we passed the ruins of the Convent of St. Anton. What an amazing place it must have been. You could still see the remnants of the floral window in the church.

Ruins of Convent of St. Antón

Castrojeriz - the church and castle

Castrojeriz was my stopping point today, and the town boasts a beautiful Iglesia San Martín as you enter as well as ruins of a castle on the hill. I decided to go to the church on my way into town, since my hotel was at the other end. It had many special pieces of religious art including these unique carvings of Madonna and child I found especially interesting.

Once at my hotel, I met a new friend from Vancouver, Canada (T). I was also surprised to find that several of my trail buddies I've spent time with before were in this town! So we gathered for dinner at their Albergue which offered a special dinner. The owner is Spanish but his wife is Korean, so we had a traditional bibimbap bowl!!! It was a delicious meal among friends!

I am having g such a wonderful time on this walk every day, but I have met people that always seem to find something to complain about. I'm not talking about people who have a legitimate injury or something like that. I am talking about people who just complain about being tired of the regional food, dislike the hotels, the places we walk through, etc., etc., etc. I just know I couldn't have imagined a better experience, and I give thanks for what each day brings.